The Rake Sellers of Shinjuku
One of the coolest festivals I’ve attended in Tokyo is called Tori-no-Ichi. It’s held at the Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku, and the overall theme is celebrating prosperity and good luck in business. People attend from all over the country. It typically happens two, sometimes three times a year.
The way you participate is by purchasing a kumade — a decorative bamboo rake. Prices range from about seven dollars to maybe even a thousand dollars. The bigger the kumade, the more important it is. Usually it’s business people buying them, wanting to secure their luck and fortune for the upcoming year. One of the cool traditions is that some buyers return the previous year’s kumade to the sellers and receive a discount on the new one.
Golden Gai
Besides the festival, there are two more spots worth checking out in Shinjuku. The first is Golden Gai, tucked into the Kabukicho area just a few blocks from the shrine.
Golden Gai is famous for its maze of narrow alleyways packed with over 200 tiny bars. The name itself carries history — “golden” symbolizes the hopeful post-war era when Japan’s economy was on the upswing, capturing a sense of prosperity and renewal. “Gai” means street or district. Golden street.
The place started as a black market hub during the chaotic post-World War II years, then evolved into a gathering spot for artists, writers, and intellectuals through the 1950s and 60s. That layered history still hangs in the air between those tight walls.
Memory Lane
Not too far away is another spot with a similar vibe, though on a much smaller scale. Omoide Yokocho — which means Memory Lane. It’s also known as Piss Alley, not the most flattering name. It got that nickname from its gritty post-war history as another black market area.
The yakitori stalls run shoulder to shoulder here, and the smoke from the grills drifts through the narrow corridor. It’s the kind of place that resists description. You just have to stand in it.
The Right Night
Tori-no-Ichi only happens a couple of times each November. If your trip overlaps with it, go. If it doesn’t, Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho are there year-round — but the festival transforms Shinjuku into something you can’t replicate any other night of the year.
Tori-no-Ichi is held at Hanazono Shrine, a short walk from Shinjuku-Sanchome Station. The best atmosphere is after dark.
